Best of December

Morning light on rue de l'Abreuvoir in Montmartre

I hope you are all having a wonderful holiday season! We celebrated Christmas with delicious family meals, and a select few gifts at the foot of the tree. My eldest is now three and a half, so it’s his first year of really “getting” the Christmas spirit, and I must say few things melt the heart like your own kid singing Christmas songs for you (this is his favorite).

December has been a beautifully sunny, busy month spent preparing food gifts, completing an article on the perfect Paris croissant (more on that soon!), and generally striving to make Chocolate & Zucchini as helpful as it can be. Below are some highlights of my month. Please share yours in the comments!

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Paris Chocolate Shops: Do’s and Don’ts of Buying French Chocolate

You can’t spend time in Paris and overlook the chocolate side of the experience; I won’t let you!

The French have elevated the chocolate craft to an art form, and although there are spectacularly talented artisans all around the country, it is in Paris that you’ll find the highest concentration. This means it is the perfect opportunity to treat yourself to some of the most delicate, most intensely flavorful chocolates in the world… and buy a few gifts for others, too, if you’re feeling generous.

I must warn you there are lots of sub-average chocolate shops as well, so you have to know what to look for. And the good places are typically set up to look like luxurious jewelry boutiques, so the shopping experience can be a little intimidating. But I’m here to help! Here is my guide to artisanal chocolate in Paris.

You’ll find my Top 5 Paris chocolate shops at the bottom of this post, along with a few helpful phrases. The photos illustrating this post were taken by my intern extraordinaire Anne Elder; our thanks to the Henri Le Roux team for letting us shoot at their rue des Martyrs shop.

Chocolate bars from Henri Le Roux

Chocolate bars from Henri Le Roux

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Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ginger and Kimchi

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ginger and Kimchi

So, lately I’ve had these big jars of easy kimchi sitting on my countertop and on the middle shelf of my fridge. I gaze at it with adoring eyes, and because I love it so, it sneaks its way into my cooking almost daily.

And my most recent kimchi win is this dish of roasted Brussels sprouts with ginger and kimchi.

It is high season for Brussels sprouts. Every produce shop in Paris proudly displays the miniature cabbages on their sidewalk stands — this is where they show off their most gorgeous, most seasonal stuff — and it’s hard for me to walk past and not buy a bulging paper bag of them.

(Shopping tip! Pick Brussels sprouts that feel firm, with the leaves tightly furled. They should have a nice, even green color, with no sign of yellowing or browning. If you find them still attached to the stalk — which never happens in Paris, sadly — that’s even better.)

Pick Brussels sprouts that feel firm, with the leaves tightly furled, and no sign of yellowing.

I have two current favorite uses for Brussels sprouts. One is to make a shaved salad, slicing them thin with my mandoline slicer and serving them raw with, say, diced apples, fresh walnuts, and a citrusy dressing. The other is to roast them hard, so they’ll become tender — but not mushy! — and take on a good bit of caramelized char.

It’s not surprising that roasted Brussels sprouts are so insanely good: all members of the Brassica family take beautifully to that treatment, which reveals their sweet nuttiness. If you need convincing, I’ll refer you to my roasted cauliflower à la Mary Celeste, my charred broccoli and avocado salad, or my roasted Savoy cabbage.

Roasted Brussels sprouts + kimchi

I came across this particular way of pairing roasted Brussels sprouts with kimchi in one of J. Kenji López-Alt’s brilliant Food Lab columns. When you think about it, it makes complete sense to eat fermented cabbage alongside fresh cabbage, and indeed the acidity and crunch of the kimchi complement the roasted Brussels sprouts most winningly.

Another take-away of this fabulous recipe is to roast fresh ginger, finely chopped into thin sticks, alongside the Brussels sprouts. Without Kenji’s encouragement I might have worried the ginger would burn, but instead its flavor deepens and concentrates, and improves the overall balance of the dish.

It’s an incredibly easy one to put together, too, with a simple Asian-inspired dressing that uses ingredients you should totally keep in your pantry if you don’t already: honey, rice vinegar, sesame oil, and fish sauce (or soy sauce).

We’ve delighted in this as a simple vegetarian meal, sometimes with steamed rice underneath, sometimes with avocado on top, and I’ve also served it alongside spatchcocked chicken or roasted mackerel. And I think it will do really well as a unique side on your holiday table!

Join the conversation!

What’s your stance on Brussels sprouts: love ’em or hate ’em? If it’s the former, how do you like to prepare them? Will they figure in your holiday menu planning?

Brussels sprouts

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12 Best Food Gifts for the Holidays

Giving away your own goodies for the holidays is a total win in my book: homemade food gifts are environmentally friendly, they don’t break the bank, they are guaranteed to be of use to the recipient, and they give you the perfect excuse to spend a bit of time playing in the kitchen.

But not tooooo much time either: I’m sure you have a mile-long to-do list around the holidays, and making your own edible gifts should not add to your stress. So I’ve handpicked some of my best food gifts — the kind that’s easy to make and delicious to receive — to share with you. Please add you own favorites in the comments so we can all benefit!

French Christmas Sablés

Thin, crisp, and delicately buttery with just a whisper of cinnamon, these classic French cookies are based on my best friend’s mother’s recipe, who has been making them every year for decades. Add them to your own tradition!

sablesnoel-holiday-gift

Easy Orangettes

Orangettes are short strips of candied orange peel dipped in dark chocolate, and they’re a classic of French chocolate confections. These are a breeze to make if you buy the orange peel already candied from a baking supply store, yet they make for a super classy gift.

shortcut_orangettes-holiday-gift

Dukkah

Dukkah is an Egyptian spice mix made with nuts (commonly hazelnuts, sometimes pistachios or almonds) and seeds (cumin, sesame, coriander, fennel). It is typically used as an interactive appetizer: serve with bread and a shallow cup of olive oil for people to dip in. Perfect to make as a big batch and give out to all your friends!

dukkah1_holiday-gift

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Easy Homemade Kimchi

A few weeks ago in my newsletter (sign up now!) I hinted that I had prepared a really easy homemade kimchi, and I asked whether you wanted to hear about it. The response was an unequivocal “Yes!” so today I come to you with my DIY formula for kimchi.

I’ve long been intrigued by all things fermented. Whether it’s sourdough bread, pickles, yogurt, kvass, cheese, kombucha, milk or fruit kefir, preserved lemons… I find it inordinately exciting that microorganisms can be put to work like an army of tiny helpers to transform foods, improve their flavor, extend their shelf life, and boost their nutrition.

I can’t be babysitting microorganisms; I have real children, too.

I am also fascinated by the serendipity and ingeniosity of these preparations. How admirable were these early humans to discover and harness the fermentation process, long before we even knew there was such a thing as a microorganism?* (And how many died of food poisoning in the name of experimentation? Some kind of memorial is in order, surely.)

And because I’m just as interested in the microbiota and the beneficial effects of probiotic foods on gut health, I’m always seeking to expand my repertoire of DIY fermented projects that won’t turn my kitchen upside down, such as this easy homemade kimchi. (I can’t be babysitting microorganisms; I have real children, too.)

Make your own kimchi!

A preparation of spiced fermented vegetables, kimchi is a cornerstone of Korean cuisine: the average Korean puts away 250 grams** (9 ounces) a day. There are many different kinds, but the most iconic versions are based on napa cabbage, radishes, and/or cucumbers.

Curious to learn more about kimchi? Amanda Feifer's wonderful book Ferment Your Vegetables has a whole chapter about it!

Curious to learn more about kimchi? Amanda Feifer’s wonderful book Ferment Your Vegetables has a whole chapter about it!

The process is incredibly straightforward: you select a mix of organic vegetables around the basic formula outlined below, adding pretty much any other vegetable you want to use up.

You chop or slice all this finely (by hand or with a food processor), add salt, and flavor with garlic, ginger, fish sauce (soy sauce for vegetarians), a bit of sugar, and some ground chili powder, making it more or less spicy depending on your preference.

This you’ll transfer to jars and allow to ferment on your counter for at least 5 days, ideally 3 weeks. You can then proudly pop one of the jars open, and dig into the deliciously full-flavored, tart and funky vegetable condiment you’ve created.

Favorite uses for this easy homemade kimchi

The first and most obvious use for this is with Korean food and Asian flavors in general. It would be a lovely item to have on hand if you were to make your own bibimbap (I especially like this recipe, made with the Inspiralizer), or maybe a batch of Korean pancakes, a sushi bowl, or any slurpy noodle dish (many more such ideas on my Asian Inspiration Board on Pinterest).

Beyond these, I like to plop kimchi onto grilled meats, or eat it with eggs (hard-boiled, scrambled, or sunny side up). I stir it into my fried rice and my vegetable stir-fries, I toss it into my salads and my bowls of roasted roots, and I slip it into avocado and/or cheese sandwiches***.

Homemade kimchi kicks thing up by a few notches, provides acidity and crunch, and an irreplaceable sense of pride that you’ve made this wondrous food yourself. And wouldn’t this make the most amazing edible gift for the food enthusiasts around you?

Fermentation transforms foods, improves their flavor, extends their shelf life, and boosts nutrition.

What about you?

Do you share my fascination for fermented foods? Have you ever tried kimchi, and how do you like to eat it? Ever wanted to make your own?

* It’s crazy to think this discovery didn’t happen until the late seventeenth century.

** Source: The excellent Ni Cru Ni Cuit, by Marie-Claire Frédéric, on the history and cultural significance of fermented foods.

*** Keep in mind that kimchi is fairly salty, so adjust the overall seasoning of your dish accordingly. Do not be tempted to reduce the salt content in the kimchi, however, as salt is what keeps the fermentation process safe.

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