A Sandwich for Dessert

Le Club-sandwich Framboise et Crème de Gianduja

[A Sandwich for Dessert]

“Un Sandwich pour le Dessert” is a project I worked on for Fraîch’Attitude, a Parisian gallery that specializes in Eat Art. Eat Art is an offshoot of ephemeral art that uses food as its primary material: some of the exhibitions are actually edible and are meant to disappear into the visitors’ stomachs, to be recreated the next day.

The gallery just opened a new exhibition yesterday around the theme Picnic, and a couple of months ago I was asked to submit something (“anything! you decide!”) for the exhibition’s catalog, which also serves as a cahier de style — a reflection of current trends and inspirations.

I decided to create visual recipes for four simple dessert sandwiches, easy to make and easy to pack, for a colorful picnic on a nearby patch of grass or on the floorboards of your living-room. (Click on the names to view the recipe.)

Le Club-sandwich Framboise et Crème de Gianduja: sandwich bread + gianduioso (or nutella) + raspberries = raspberry and gianduioso club-sandwich.

Le Sandwich Petit Beurre à la Fraise: strawberries + petit suisse + butter cookies = strawberry cookie sandwich.

Le Petit Pain Amandes et Mirabelles: plums cooked with a little sugar + toasted almonds + a mini loaf of bread = plum and almond mini-bread.

La Brioche Figue et Citron: lemon curd + a pretty brioche + figs = fig and lemon brioche.

Mini Summer Rolls with Thai Dipping Sauce

Mini Summer Rolls

When Pim suggested we food bloggers try and raise some funds for the tsunami relief effort, her idea was that we would jointly create a twelve course menu of Southeast Asian inspiration, complete with recipes, drink pairings and translations. It is not my habit to let the big bad thnigs of the world take up too much space on C&Z (I think of it as a sheltered little place and I don’t think anyone comes here to know about my political opinions), but this is a highly worthy cause and I loved Pim’s idea.

In creating this Menu For Hope and posting it on our blogs today, we would like to invite all of our readers to donate something, however small, to the charity we have chosen to support: Unicef. The media will likely loose all interest in this catastrophe very soon, but of course (and you don’t need me to tell you that) the people who have lost everything can still use our help.

The full menu (with links to all other recipes) can be found here.

I volunteered to create an appetizer, and promptly started to chip my nailpolish with worry. Although I enjoy Asian food very much when I eat out, I know very little about cooking it myself: I have just a tiny bit of humble experience with Japanese cooking, but none whatsoever when it comes to Southeast Asian gastronomy.

I thus make no claim as to the authenticity of my mini summer rolls — can I just call them fusion and run with it? But what I can certainly vouch for is their delicious taste and pretty presentation. Filled with aromatic components (mushrooms, coriander, basil, peanut, shrimp), they have a very clean, very fresh taste, beautifully complemented by the dipping sauce.

They were also a lot of fun to make, if a little tricky because of the rolling skills they required: interestingly enough, my first rolls were almost perfect, but after two or three I started thinking about the technique too much and I suddenly had much more trouble getting them to look right. So my advice to you is: tell that left brain to shut up while you roll!

They will make fabulous finger food (as generally observed, boys will cram them in their mouths in one swift bite, girls in two or three dainty ones), but since they are somewhat time-consuming to prepare, I would avoid making them for too big a party unless a) you’re the fastest roll-roller in the universe or b) you can enroll fellow rollers to help you out. And of course, you could also roll them in larger rice-paper rounds (but that would take out the “mini” in “mini summer rolls”).

UNICEFBUTTON.jpg

As for your donation, click on the button above to get to the Just Giving website that was set up for the occasion (Just Giving is a trusted service for online fund-raising). And remember, give as little or as much as you can afford, every coin helps. Thank you!

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Artichoke and Goat-Cheese Mille-Feuille

Goat Cheese and Artichoke Mille-Feuille

And today, I’d like to invite you to hop on over to NPR.org for my new Kitchen Window column! What you will find this time is a recipe for an Artichoke and Goat-Cheese Mille-Feuille — a tasty, fun-to-make and elegant starter for your next dinner party…

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Artichoke and Goat-Cheese Mille-Feuille Recipe

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 12 minutes

Total Time: 42 minutes

Serves 4 as a first course

Artichoke and Goat-Cheese Mille-Feuille Recipe

Ingredients

  • 4 fresh globe artichokes (look for firm artichokes that feel heavy for their size, evenly colored and free of blemishes, with their leaves tightly closed) (see note)
  • the juice from half a lemon
  • 2.5 ounces fresh goat cheese
  • one sheet of puff pastry, thawed according to package directions
  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • olive oil
  • fleur de sel or kosher salt

Instructions

    Step 1 - Prepare the artichoke filling
  1. Fill a bowl with enough water to cover the artichoke hearts, pour in the lemon juice and set aside. For each artichoke, snap off the bottom stem and then trim the tough leaves at the base and the tops of the leaves at the artichoke's tip, roughly one-third. Remove the rest of the leaves carefully until you reach the choke, a dome of inedible fibers that protect the artichoke heart. Scrape it out with a melon baller or a spoon, taking care not to damage the heart underneath. Place the heart in the bowl of lemon water to prevent it from browning while you work on the rest of the artichokes.
  2. Bring salted water (enough to cover the artichoke hearts) to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the artichoke hearts, bring back to a boil and cook for eight minutes. Drain and let cool.
  3. Place the artichoke hearts, the fresh goat cheese and two teaspoons of olive oil in a food processor and pulse until combined but still slightly chunky. (This can also be done by hand with a fork.) Cover and refrigerate until ready to assemble.
  4. Step 2 - Prepare the pastry
  5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Draw a 1.5'' x 4'' rectangle on a sheet of paper and cut it out. On a floured surface, gently roll the sheet of puff pastry to 10" x 11" or 12" rectangle. Use the paper rectangle as a guide to cut out 12 equal pastry rectangles with a sharp knife.
  6. Transfer the pastry rectangles onto the cookie sheet, leaving them a little room to expand. Prick the rectangles with the tines of a fork (to prevent the dough from rising too much as it bakes), brush the rectangles with olive oil, and sprinkle lightly with thyme and fleur de sel. Put into the oven to bake for 10-12 minutes, until puffy and golden. Turn out on a rack to cool.
  7. Step 3 – Assemble
  8. Put two rectangles of pastry on a work surface. Spread each of them with a rounded tablespoon of filling, working carefully so as not to break or damage the pastry. Put them one on top of the other, top with a third rectangle and set aside. Repeat with the remaining rectangles and filling.
  9. Serve immediately, with a few plum tomatoes (stem-on for a prettier effect) and a drizzle of vinaigrette.

Notes

The intensity of taste in fresh artichokes is incomparable. But if they are hard to come by, you can substitute frozen artichoke hearts (these are usually sold uncooked and should be boiled just like fresh artichoke hearts), or marinated artichoke hearts from a jar (these are already cooked, simply drain and pat them dry).

https://cnz.to/recipes/starters/artichoke-and-goat-cheese-mille-feuille-recipe/

(Previous Kitchen Window pieces:
Asparagus Confit with Almonds and Rosemary,
Chocolate and Candied Ginger Tartlets.)

Crab and Cucumber Salad

Salade de Concombre au Crabe

Paris went through a miniature heatwave last week — it certainly felt nice to take the skirts, tank tops and strappy sandals out of their winter residence — and lunchtime on Saturday found me craving for something easy and fresh.

I slipped on my creative goggles and took another look through the contents of the fridge. A cucumber salad was quickly envisioned, and I decided to finally use one of the crab meat cans I’d bought many moons ago to make crab cakes (and never did).

The refrigerator was in dire need of replenishing, not exactly empty but certainly devoid of exciting things. I considered going out to buy a few things, but quickly decided against it. Midday is the worst time to be out running food errands, as the stores then are crowded with hungry people whose very hunger makes them impatient and crabby — or maybe it’s just me.

So. I slipped on my creative goggles and took another look through the contents of the fridge. A cucumber salad was quickly envisioned, and I decided to finally — finally! — use one of the crab meat cans I had bought many moons ago to make crab cakes and never did. Thankfully those things keep for zillions of moons so they were still fresh as a bud, if a little dusty.

The resulting salad turned out to be exactly what we needed — super easy to make, fresh and zingy, and lovely to look at, too, with its soft green soft pink accents.

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New York, New York!

New York
Photography by cmiper

Well, it looks like Maxence and I will be spending a few days in New York City this June — my excitement can barely be contained. I have long wanted to return to this city, which I visited just once when I was 15.

Ten years later, I have read a lot more books and articles and restaurant reviews and blogs, I have seen a lot more movies (not to mention episodes of Sex and the City), and I feel I have an infinity of things to discover, see, hear, experience — and more importantly, taste.

So. Plane tickets, check. Hotel room, check. Guidebook, check. I have a few things in mind and a lot of reading up to do in the archives of NYC food bloggers, but I would also like to turn to you, readers of C&Z, for advice!

If you were me — more interested in exploring the streets than visiting museums, thirsty for the quirky and the authentic, and undeniably tastebud-driven — what would you do, where would you go, what would you eat, what would you absolutely not want to miss?

~~~

Update: Oh wow, what a response! I knew I could count on you, many thanks for the terrific suggestions. It will probably take me a dozen more trips to cover them all, but I will take your good advice with me and try to make the most of my stay. It certainly seems like I won’t go hungry!

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