Crystalline Iceplant (Ficoïde Glaciale)

Meet one of my favorite greens, the crystalline iceplant, known as Mesembryanthemum cristallinum in Latin and ficoïde glaciale in French.

It’s a succulent, leafy plant that originated in South Africa and belongs to the same family as tetragon, another unusual green I’m very fond of.

The leaves of the iceplant are thick and fleshy, with a frosted look, as if they were covered with tiny dew droplets. Depending on the variety, they may be flat and large, about the size of a hand (as shown above), or smaller and sold attached to the stem. Full-size leaves I will slice into short ribbons; small ones I’ll keep whole, trimming the thicker parts of the stem.

Ficoide Glaciale

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12 Hours in Paris

Three and a half years ago, I followed my friend Adam’s lead and imagined what I would do if I was given just Twelve Hours in Paris.

I still stand by the choices I made then. But, prompted by reader Patricia’s recent comment on that post, I thought it would be fun to revisit that theme now, and dream up another ideal Parisian day, featuring shops and restaurants that have opened in the meantime.

My twelve hours in Paris, 2012 edition, will begin in late morning with a croissant from Gontran Cherrier’s bakery, which I think is one of the best in Paris, extra flaky and extra good. I will also buy a half loaf of his rye and red miso bread, so good I won’t mind schlepping it around with me all day.

I will then spend a couple of leisurely hours walking up and around the Montmartre hill, which remains full of secrets even when you’ve lived in the neighborhood for many years. I will climb up staircases and down cobblestoned streets, check out the vineyard, peek into courtyards (and tiptoe in for a closer look if the gate happened to be open), and enjoy the village-y quiet and the greenery.

Hopping onto the metro or catching a Vélib’, I will go and have lunch at Bob’s Kitchen, the vegetarian restaurant where I cooked for a short while last year. I will order the day’s veggie stew, the satisfying mix of grains, legumes, roasted vegetables, and crudités I lunched on day in, day out during my stint there. I might also get one of their irresistible maki (garnished with avocado, mango, and daikon radish) to share.

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Omnivore World Tour in Paris

Omnivore World Tour

The Omnivore World Tour — formerly known as the Omnivore Food Festival — is an inspiring event during which an audience of pros and enthusiasts watch live demos by up-and-coming chefs.

The French edition will be held in Paris (rather than Deauville*) this year, from Sunday, March 11 to Tuesday, March 13, and I will be hosting the chocolate masterclasses, a series of chocolate-centric demos and discussions with pastry chefs and chocolatiers.

If you’d like to join in the fun, the tickets are available for purchase online. I hope to meet some of you there!

* See my post about the chicken in a bread crust to read about my experience last year.

Shooting photos for my new book

The French Market Cookbook

We have just wrapped up the final photo shoot for my new book about vegetables and French cuisine, and as someone who loves to know how things work behind the scenes, I thought I would tell you a bit about what the process has been like.

For my first two books, I shot all the pictures myself, but I felt that being a one-woman-band was not the most relaxed experience of all, so for this new project I wanted to work with a team of pros to produce the photos.

This meant finding a photographer and a stylist for the photos of the finished dishes, and I was hoping to work with Françoise Nicol and Virginie Michelin, because I loved what they had done for Alain Ducasse’s Nature book. They were up for it, and my editor approved the choice after looking at their portfolios, so we were in business.

Because produce and seasonality are central to my book, it was important to me that we shoot each chapter in season. Had we shot everything at once, as is often done for practical reasons, we would have had to work with out-of-season fruits and vegetables, and it would have bothered me (a lot) to practice the opposite of what I was advocating. A secondary bonus was a lower food budget, since seasonal produce is generally cheaper.

The one hiccup in this carefully laid plan was that the stylist injured her hand a week before the fall shoot, so we decided to postpone it until she had fully recovered, and shoot fall and winter back-to-back. This was doable without compromise because, in truth, fall market stalls are not that different from winter ones, and it turned out to have a silver lining: instead of enduring the dark of December, we were able to benefit from the longer, brighter days of late February.

The French Market Cookbook

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Multiseed Buckwheat Cookies

One of the challenges of writing a cookbook is that, for the duration of the project, most of one’s cooking energies are channeled into the book — to develop the recipes initially, and then to re-test them as often as needed to refine them.

This means that, for months and months, one’s kitchen activities are largely governed by a spreadsheet — glamorous, no? — and any tempting recipe that may be found online, in books, or in magazines, must be bookmarked or clipped and set aside for a future day, when one is no longer so engrossed in the bookwriting process.

It is a small sacrifice to make, to be sure, and seeing the collection of original recipes grow makes up for it tenfold, but still: I have reached the point where I am just about done with the recipe testing, and it feels lovely to dip my toes into spontaneous waters again.

I couldn’t stop thinking about these crisp little numbers until I finally allowed myself to bake a batch last week.

I read about today’s crisp little numbers, rich with seeds and nut butters, on Clea’s blog a month ago, and I couldn’t stop thinking about them until I finally allowed myself to bake a batch last week, for no other reason than my needing a break one afternoon and baking cookies seeming the perfect way to make it count.

I altered the recipe slightly: I had run out of eggs so I used ground and soaked flax seeds instead (a classic vegan trick); I doubled the amount of seeds; I added salt; I used part wheat flour and part buckwheat flour; and I forgot to add the olive oil, but found I didn’t miss it, though it would likely help the cookies keep longer if you chose to use it (Clea adds 2 tablespoons).

I’ve found these to be just the thing to scratch the itch for a small treat, with or without a square of bittersweet chocolate, while I read and re-read and edit and tighten up my manuscript, and they are definitely joining these walnut and date cookies in my budding repertoire of easy yet delicious vegan cookies. What are some of your favorites in that category?

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