The King’s Vegetable Garden

Le Potager du Roi

When Louisa brought me peaches and zucchini from Le Potager du Roi in Versailles, her birthday gift was really twofold — delicious produce to enjoy now, and the promise of a fascinating new place to discover later. And so it is that on a bright and sunny day last week, my parents and I took a little trip to Versailles, snubbed the castle and walked straight on to the Potager.

Le Potager du Roi — the King’s Vegetable Garden — was built by Jean-Baptiste La Quintinie between 1678 and 1683. A few years before, La Quintinie had been appointed by Louis XIV as the Director of All Royal Fruit and Vegetable Gardens, and part of his mission was to build a vegetable garden just South of the Château de Versailles, to accommodate the court’s needs for fresh produce. For this purpose he was given nine hectares (about 1,000,000 square feet) of swamps, which he dried out and structured into a large central square with a fountain and thirty smaller gardens all around, in which he proceeded to plant a wide variety of produce, experimenting and inventing a few horticultural techniques along the way.

More than three centuries later, his Potager would still do him proud. It is just a bit smaller — some elements have disappeared or been replaced — but it is still planted with more than 300 varieties of fruits and vegetables maintained by the students from the school of horticulture next door, and it produces over 70 tons of produce every year.

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Like Wine for Chocolate: Best Wine and Chocolate Pairings

As I write these lines, we have 52 56 contributions to this 13th edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday! I’m delighted that so many of you took part in the game and had fun playing. I won’t lie to you, it does give me a little thrill to know that 52 56 of us — and that’s not even counting the friends and family we embarked on the adventure — conducted this chocolate/wine tasting experiment, just a few days apart and each in our own little corner of the world.

So without further ado, let me direct you to their respective tasting notes. To try and make things somewhat organized, I ordered contributions by type of wine — and not by type of chocolate confection, although the thought did cross my mind. Some participants experimented with different wines, and these you will find in the “multiple tastings” section. I realize that the “red” category could probably be broken down some more, maybe into dessert wines and non-dessert wines or by region, but I didn’t always know enough to make that distinction. If you don’t find your entry listed here or if I made a mistake in the description/classification, please email me and it will be promptly corrected!

Thank you so much for participating: it’s been fun, I’ve learned a lot, and I have also added quite a few chocolate recipes on my to-try list!

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Best Wine Pairing With Chocolate

Some might think that when I set the theme for this 13th edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday, I already had a clever pairing in mind, all prepared and tested and ready to go. But no. The idea for this little challenge just popped in my head when I was trying to think of a wine tasting theme without pretending to know more about it than I really do, and to really replicate the way I usually go about choosing wine, trying to keep in mind what we will be drinking it with, when and who with.

To tell you the truth, although I am trying to acquire a basic knowledge of origins and grape types and aging processes, I usually go by the little heart-shaped stickers (coup de coeur maison) that my wine seller puts on the bottles he warmly recommends. Sometimes I ask him directly for advice, and sometimes I just follow my instinct and boldly go by the look of the label — anything that looks too obviously like a team of marketing and creative people worked on it loses points dramatically.

But since I’m hosting and all, I resisted the temptation of just going in and asking the store owner what I should drink with a really chocolate-y chocolate cake. Instead, I did my homework and a little research.

First off, I read everywhere that it was notoriously difficult to pair good chocolate with wine. Why? Because the very characteristics of good chocolate (intense cocoa aroma, hints of bitterness, low-sugar content, slight acidity, tannins and persistance of flavors) tend to mute and/or clash with most wines. The key to a good choco-wine pairing, I have read, is to pick a wine that has strong and distinctive aromas so as not to be muffled, it should be low in tannins, not too dry, not too astringent and with low acidity.

In practice, I found lots of different suggestions: port wine came up frequently, as did the names of Xeres, Jurançon, Marsala, Yellow Wine from the Jura (Vin Jaune du Jura), Marsala, Tokaji from Hungaria, wines from Malaga, but also dry white wines or fruity or intense reds.

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Modern Culinary Art

L'Art Culinaire Moderne

I have written about my grandmother on a few occasions in the past. She is my father’s mother and she lives not too far from me, which allows me to visit and bask in the glow of her tenderness and her general wisdom on all things life.

In the past few years, my ever-growing passion for food and cooking have definitely brought us closer: as a devoted cook herself, I can see how happy she is that a grandchild of hers would share that interest and be delighted to converse endlessly about tips and recipes and tricks of the trade.

Since she doesn’t speak English and has never used a computer — much less been on the Internet — it is somewhat difficult to explain what C&Z is, but I try (clippings help), she gets the general idea, and she’s very eager to help. Most recently, she decided to entrust me with one of her cooking bibles called L’Art Culinaire Moderne written by Henri-Paul Pellaprat, which she acquired in late 1946 as her handwritten ex-libris attests.

I am fascinated by vintage cookbooks and this one is no exception. With more than 700 pages, 3,500 recipes and 270 pages of illustrations, the author’s ambition is to establish the standards of la bonne table française et étrangère — French and foreign cuisine — for the use of the home cook (needless to say, this is a woman we’re talking about here).

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Lamb Skewers with Thyme

Brochettes d’agneau au thym

It’s strange how much more comfortable I am around vegetables than meat. Vegetables feel familiar, safe and easy to work with. I never run out of things to do with or to them, I know how to choose them, how they’re supposed to feel in your hand, how long they keep and how they react to various treatments and seasonings.

Meat, on the other hand, is a much more mysterious matter to me. Different breeds, different cuts, different levels of quality, tenderness and fat content, different methods of brining, curing, searing, roasting, grilling… and most of the time at the butcher shop, I have to rely on the little labels pricked into the meat to even know what animal it comes from.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy eating meat, but I have to push myself outside my comfort zone to cook with it.

I was waiting in line at the butcher’s the other day, trying to decide what I could get that looked tasty and interesting, when I spotted their pre-made lamb skewers, all colorful and pretty. I was tempted but I thought, where is the fun in ready-to-cook skewers? And since I had tomatoes, onions and bell peppers at home, I opted to just buy the meat, and make my own simple lamb and thyme skewers.

Assembling skewers is every bit as fun as stringing pearl necklaces, only you get to eat the tender, fragrant, caramelized meat afterwards — an even nicer reward for your efforts.

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