Updates: Print before you go!Updates: Print before you go!To ensure you have the most accurate information to accompany you on your Paris adventures, here is a list of updates on the restaurants and shops recommended in Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris.
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Le Jardin d'Hiver du MeuriceAfter a redesign by Philippe Starck, Le Jardin d'Hiver du Meurice has been renamed Le Dalí, in honor of the surrealist artist, who was a regular guest of the hotel.
The furniture and décor are new (the ceiling is now decorated by a large canvas painted by Starck's daughter Ara), as is the lunchtime menu created by chef Yannick Alléno, but the teatime formules remain the same, and still feature Camille Lesecq's pastries.
228 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1er
M° Tuileries
01 44 58 10 44
Arômes et CépagesThe wine shop inside the Marché des Enfants Rouges becomes Versant Vins, and is now run by Jeanne Galinie.
39 rue de Bretagne, Paris 3ème
M° Filles-du-Calvaire
01 42 72 34 85
L'Artisan de SaveursThe salon de thé L'Artisan des Saveurs has reopened in a new location under the name TEAthétcha, at 119, rue de la Glacière, in the 13th, M° Glacière, +33 1 53 80 48 29.
If you're in its original neighborhood, you can go to Mamie Gâteaux a few doors down, an über-charming tea salon and vintage shop run by a French-Japanese couple, Mariko and Hervé Duplessis.
Mamie Gâteaux
66 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6ème
01 42 22 32 15
M° Sèvres-Babylone
Tue-Sat 11:30am-6pm; lunch served until 2:30pm.
Les ZingotsLes Zingots has been replaced by La Fidélité, a hip bistro that's especially bustling at night, and where you can eat for around 40€.
La Crêperie du Comptoir du RelaisYves Camdeborde's crêpe stand is now called L'Avant-Comptoir. In addition to take-away crêpes, it now offers Basque-inspired tapas and drinks for those diners waiting for a table at the Comptoir du Relais next door.
Le SensingGuy Martin has transformed his Le Sensing into a restaurant called Italia that focuses on a fresh, traditional Italian cuisine cooked by chef Ricardo Maggioni.
Cuisine de BarCuisine de Bar is in the 6th and not, as it is mistakenly listed, in the 7th. The rest of the information is correct.
8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6ème
M° Saint-Sulpice or Sèvres-Babylone
01 45 48 45 69
DélicabarDélicabar is now closed (please join me for a minute of silence), but Rose Bakery (see page 87) now has an outpost on the second floor.
Cuisine de BarPoilâne now has a second Cuisine de Bar location with their new bakery in the Haut Marais, at 38 rue Debelleyme in the 3rd arrondissement.
Les OrmesChef Stéphane Molé has sold Les Ormes, and is planning to open a new one outside of Paris. Chef Philippe Pentecôte has taken over, renovated the restaurant, and reopened under the name Le Petit Bordelais. (Three-course menu: 33 €; tasting menu: 45 €; à la carte: about 45 €.)
Le Petit Bordelais
22 rue Surcouf, Paris 7ème
M° Invalides
01 45 51 46 93
Les Cocottes de Christian ConstantLes Cocottes now has a phone number (01 45 50 10 31), but the restaurant no longer operates non-stop, and is now closed on Sundays. The new service hours are: Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm and 7pm-10:30pm; Sat noon-3pm and 7pm-11pm.
Les Saveurs de FloraFlora Mikula has closed Les Saveurs de Flora and is now cooking at Auberge Flora, a small hotel near Bastille.
Autour d'un verreAutour d'un verre was closed for several months due to a leak in the kitchen ceiling; it is now open again.
21 rue de Trévise
Paris 9ème
M° Grands Boulevards
01 48 24 43 74
ChartierChartier is now using mostly pre-made dishes that they reheat, and although the decor is wonderful, I can no longer recommend it as a dining destination.
CojeanThe Cojean location on the basement floor of the Bon Marché is now closed, but Rose Bakery (see page 87) now has an outpost on the second floor.
BioboaBioboa has moved to a new location at 93 rue Montmartre, in the 2nd (cross street: rue Paul Lelong, M° Sentier).
JeanChef Benoît Bordier has left Jean for Les Etangs de Corot in Ville-d'Avray (10 km to the West of Paris). His former second Anthony Boucher, a Pierre Gagnaire alumni, has taken his place; Alison Johnson, a New Yorker, has been hired as a pastry chef.
8 rue Saint-Lazare, Paris 9ème
M° Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
01 48 78 62 73
CorneilCorneil is now closed. For a good rib steak, you can head higher up the street to Braisenville, which serves tapas and meat cooked in a wood fire oven.
Braisenville, 36 rue Condorcet, Paris 9ème, 09 50 91 21 74.
J'GoThe J'Go team has opened a second restaurant in the Saint-Germain area.
14 rue Lobineau, Paris 6ème
M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
01 43 26 19 02
Open seven days a week
Rose BakeryRose Bakery has opened a second location in the 3rd arrondissement; it offers much the same dishes and desserts as the one on rue des Martyrs.
30 rue Debelleyme, Paris 3ème
M° Filles du Calvaire
01 49 96 54 01
SpringSpring has relocated to the 1st arrondissement, at 6 Rue Bailleul (01 45 96 05 72). The tasting menu is now 64€ at night, and there's a 23€-32€ formule at lunchtime.
Daniel Rose also runs a wine shop and épicerie with Josh Adler called Spring Boutique, at 52 rue de l'Arbre Sec, Paris 1er (01 58 62 44 30).
Tienda NuevaTienda Nueva is now closed. If you're looking for Colombian goods, however, there's a new shop selling Latin American goods just a block from there. It's called Mercatienda Latina, and it's at 78 rue de Dunkerque in the 9th (01 45 26 11 80).
UrbaneUrbane is now closed. Great alternatives in this neighborhood include Patrice Gelbart's Youpi et Voilà and Romain Tischenko's Le Galopin.
Youpi et Voilà, 8 rue vicq d'azir, Paris 10ème, M° Colonel Fabien, 01 83 89 12 63.
Le Galopin, 34 rue Sainte-Marthe, Paris 10ème, M° Belleville, 01 42 06 05 03.
Saigon SandwichSaigon Sandwich has changed ownership and is now run by two friendly ladies. Their sandwiches (3€) are not exactly the same as the previous owner's, but they're just as carefully assembled, fresh and tasty.
Weekday opening hours remain the same, but the shop is no longer open on Sunday.
Le RéfectoireLe Réfectoire is now closed. For good casual eats in this neighborhood, head over to the excellent wine bar Aux Deux Amis.
Aux Deux Amis, 45 rue Oberkampf, Paris 11ème, 01 58 30 38 13.
Le Temps au TempsLe Temps au Temps is now under the ownership of a new chef who used to cook at the hotel Sofitel le Faubourg. The former owners, Sarah and Sylvain Sendra are now running a restaurant in the 5th, called Itinéraires.
Itinéraires
5 rue de Pontoise, Paris 5ème
01 46 33 60 11
M° Maubert-Mutualité
La CerisaieThe quality of the food and service at La Cerisaie hasn't been consistent, and recent visits have disappointed, so I can no longer recommend it. Not too far from there, I suggest instead Basque bistro La Cantine du Troquet.
La Cantine du Troquet, 101 rue de l'Ouest, Paris 14ème, M° Pernety, 01 45 40 04 98.
La Cave de l'Os à MoelleLa Cave de l'Os à Moelle is now closed and has been replaced by an Alsatian winstub called La Cave Schmidt, as yet untested. Les Symples de l'Os à Moelle, however, is still in operation in Issy-Les-Moulineaux.
Oh Bigre !Oh Bigre ! is now in the hands of the owners of Le Garde-Robe (see page 15) and has been renamed Le Garde-Robe des Batignolles.
Le StübliLe Stübli is now in the hands of the owners of pastry shop Lecureuil (see page 175). It has been renamed Kaffeehaus, and still focuses on German and Eastern European breads and pastries, with traditional dishes served in the upstairs room.
La FamilleBruno Viala has left La Famille, and the cuisine is now unremarkable.
The bar area, however, has become more exciting with the arrival of Houssin Azizi, who mixes fun cocktails using molecular cuisine techniques (cocktails start at 8.50€).
Boulangerie ToroBoulangerie Toro is still run by the same team, but is now named La Flûte de Pain.
Sadaharu AokiThe Port-Royal boutique in the 5th no longer offers a small salon de thé area. However, Aoki's pastries are served George Cannon's tea house in the 6th arrondissement.
Maison de thé George Cannon
12 rue Notre-Dame des Champs (map it!)
Paris 6ème
01 53 63 05 43
M° Saint-Placide
Paris-BrestIn the list of classic French pastries, the Paris-Brest is mistakenly said to be named after a bygone bicycle race. This race is, in fact, still in operation; see official website.
Pierre HerméPierre Hermé has opened his first Right Bank location a few steps from the Tuileries gardens; this new boutique focuses in macarons and chocolates.
Macarons & Chocolats
4 rue Cambon, Paris 1er
M° Concorde
Mon-Sat 10am-7pm
BaillardranThe Baillardran boutique and carts at the Montparnasse train station have been closed.
In its place, they have opened a proper boutique a block from the Opera.
12 boulevard des Capucines, Paris 9ème / map it!
M° Opéra
01 47 42 39 88
Alternatively, or to hold a comparative tasting, you can visit their competitor Lemoine at:
74 rue Saint-Dominique, Paris 7ème / map it!
M° La Tour-Maubourg
01 45 51 38 14
Arnaud LarherIn October of 2007, Arnaud Larher was awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France title in the Pâtisserie-Confiserie (pastry and candy-making) category. Félicitations Monsieur Larher !
He has also opened a second shop devoted to macarons and chocolate:
57 rue Damrémont, Paris 18ème
M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt
01 42 57 68 08
Pierre MarcoliniPierre Marcolini has opened two new chocolate shops:
3 rue Scribe, Paris 9ème, M° Opéra (Mon-Sat).
78 rue du Bac, Paris 7ème, M° Rue du Bac (Mon-Sat).
Patrick RogerChocolatier Patrick Roger has opened a new boutique in the 6th arrondissement:
91 rue de Rennes, Paris 6ème
M° Rennes
01 45 44 66 13
Tue-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm.
Patrick RogerPatrick Roger has opened three new shops:
3 place de la Madeleine, Paris 8ème, M° Madeleine (Mon-Sun).
12 cité Berryer, Village Royal, Paris 8ème, M° Madeleine (Mon-Sat).
199 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, Paris 8ème, M° Ternes (Mon-Sat).
Jacques GeninChocolate artisan Jacques Genin, whom you could formerly only visit by appointment at his lab in the 15th, has finally opened a gorgeous boutique, in which he sells his chocolates, caramels, and fruit pastes, and where you can sit down for a cup of excellent tea and a napoleon, assembled to order in the upstairs lab.
133 rue de Turenne, Paris 3ème
M° République or Filles du Calvaire
01 45 77 29 01
Mon-Sat 11am-9pm.
DonostiaDonostia is now closed.
The Good SeedSince the time of writing, US regulations have changed in regards to the import of small lots of seeds for planting and consumption; a written permit is now required.
As reader Steve Cook comments, "eating in Paris, and looking at what is available in vegetable markets and from seed merchants there, can be a great way to come up with ideas for new varieties to grow. One way to follow through on that is then to go back to the States and look in good seed catalogs for the things you want to try. A great seed company located in my home state of Oregon, Territorial Seed, for example, sells dozens of varieties that originated in France."
RonalbaThe Eastern European food store Ronalba has been transformed by its owner Julhès into a wine shop and deli.
Beau et BonBeau et Bon is now closed, and has reopened as an e-shop.
Etablissements LionEtablissements Lion is now closed.
L'Épicerie de BrunoDue to the long-term closing of this spice shop when I was fact-checking the addresses in the book, I had to remove L'Épicerie de Bruno from the book. Thankfully, Bruno Jarry has since reopened his spiffy boutique off Rue Montorgueil, and you should absolutely pay him a visit.
Packaged up by hand on the premises, the spices, herbs, flowers, and peppercorns range from high-quality classics to brow-arching curiosities and enthusing additions to the cook’s pantry. The selection of chilies from France, Hungary, Spain, and Mexico is unrivaled, and prices are kept to a very reasonable level.
The friendly owner hosts a monthly open-door event called Les Apéros de Bruno, during which visitors can have a drink and sample his new products.
30 rue Tiquetonne, Paris 2ème
M° Etienne Marcel
01 53 40 87 33
Tue-Fri noon-7:30pm; Sat 10:30am-7:30pm
Massis BleueThe spice shop Massis Bleue (Paris 9ème) has moved a few steps around the block, to a new location at 26 rue de Trévise. The new owner has changed the name to Massis & Chirag.
MarkethicMarkethic is now closed. For fair-trade goods of all kinds, you can visit one of the Artisans du Monde shops; there are four locations in Paris.
Pierre OteizaPierre Oteiza has opened a second boutique in the Quartier Latin.
18 boulevard Saint-Michel, Paris 6ème
M° Saint-Michel
01 43 25 59 01
Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 1:30pm-7pm
Joël MeurdesoifThe Joël Meurdesoif charcuterie is now closed.
La Criée du PhareLa Criée du Phare is now closed.
Champion / Shopi / EdThe Champion supermarkets have been renamed Carrefour Market; the Shopi supermarkets have been renamed Carrefour City; the Ed supermarkets have been renamed Dia.
Le Carré des SimplesLe Carré des Simples is now closed.
Julien, CavisteJulien, Caviste has changed hands and become part of a small chain of wineshops called Nysa.
Chapeau MelonI have had recent negative feedback about the wine bar activity -- long wait, nonchalant service, and tiny portions -- so I can no longer recommend dining there. It remains, however, a good place to buy natural wines.
La Librairie GourmandeLa Librairie Gourmande has moved to a new, larger location just one door up from the previous one. It is now at 92 rue Montmartre in the 2nd.
La CocotteThe Cocotte shop still exists, and is still charming, but the focus has shifted away from cookbooks and toward cute houseware and apparel.
MoraMora has slightly expanded its opening hours on Saturdays. The store is now open from 9:30am to 1pm, and then from 1:45pm till 6pm.